Ultimo in Medale

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11 - Via Breakdance - Medale
 
Partiamo in Piumino da casa Anghileri a tutta. Massi, addestrato durante le ultime uscite dallo Spetsnaz OMUS, è incontenibile.
 Sembra che dobbiamo fare il tempo sulla ferrata del Medale, neanche avesse subito un lavaggio del cervello dal grande WAR.
Io dietro arranco ma tento di tenere il passo, a fatica.
 
Raggiungiamo la cengia mediana, siamo masarati di sudore e il cuore batte a mille. Io sono già marcio. 
“Tode ho dimenticato il cibo e le pastiglie anti-epilettiche”. 
“quindi?”
“quindi niente, non le prendo”.
 
Iniziamo bene, già mi immagino gli scenari peggiori, gente che shakera a frequenze ipersoniche, manco ci fosse un terremoto di magnitudo 10 con epicentro al rifugio Medale.
Massi è carico. Parte dichiarando: “ah, io o vado su o vengo giù, non preoccuparti che non ti faccio aspettare in sosta.” Bene. Speriamo vada su allora. Raggiunge immediatamente il primo fittone e subito la via offre un passaggio ‘scorbutico’ (da relazione, chissà cosa vorrà dire tra l’altro). 
E fu così che Massi si improvvisa un boulderista in prestazione su un 8a di blocco sui massi della val di Mello: cavalca la spigolo con entrambe le gambe, palmi aperti che rilanciano, ad ogni rilancio tra un gemito e l’altro esce anche un <<occhio Tode>>. Io tra me e me non capisco bene cosa stia succedendo; è 6a+, possibile che richiedi movimenti così estremi? Non faccio in tempo a finire il ragionamento che la gambetta inizia a tremare, prima lentamente poi sempre più vigorosamente e… VRAMMMMMMM. Mi trovo appeso alla sosta a schivare un boccione che ha staccato nel cadere, lui qualche metro sotto al primo fittone. 
 
Detto, Fatto: è venuto giù. Inizio Tragico.
 
A parte questo incidente di percorso, la giornata è spettacolare, la via un capolavoro. E’ un continuo susseguirsi di strapiombi, placche a gocce, ma anche fessure che concedono piacevoli incastri. Sempre con “un’esposizione da carcere” e su roccia verdoniana. Cosa chiedere di più? Ah, un fila di stronzate sparate a raffica che non ti fanno stare serio e concentrato neanche quando stai sbacchettando con l’ultima protezione chissà dove sotto ai piedi. 
 
Il post-via è degno dei “big-roars”: le bottiglie di Ferrari stappate sono solo l’inizio. Il resto è la combinazione esplosiva tra un gruppo di somari, una giornata ‘atomica’ e il fatto che sia l’ultimo dell’anno.
 
Buon 2017 a tutti!
 

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Camille
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Willa
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